After the First World War Art Deco style was formed in art, which name speaks for itself. As all fashionistas were fed up with Romanticism and its solemnity in the late XIX century, they wanted to discover something new. Initially, France, and then Germany and England began to penetrate into the newest style – Art Nouveau. In the 20s of the 20th century society firmly decided to escape from the twisted lines and faded colors of the outgoing Art Nouveau style. Already late Art Nouveau, or “modern”, pleased with the growing geometrism. Wings of jewelry fairies were replaced by wings of airplanes. However, this quest for two years was interrupted by the First World War. The period from the end of the First World War and the beginning of the second wholly owned Art deco (its style guide can serve us the movie “The Great Gatsby”).
Few years later Art Deco conquered all America, as well as appearing, such products promoted the luxury of something new, altered picture of chic. Earlier Art Nouveau ornaments played perfect on the colors, shades and textures of the product and only expensive materials such as ivory, skins of exotic animals, wood, rare tree species, natural pearls were used for the jewelry. Whereas in Art deco style we can find any material. Art Deco actively subdued all jewelery stalls, without losing its exquisite charm.
The main goal of Art Deco style was to create the myth of a luxurious life during the “lost generation” between the two World wars.
The main features
The main distinguishing feature of the jewelry in art-deco style is curved broad line, which also called “lash of a whip.” This technique in the arts and crafts used in Japanese culture, where a thick line depicts the waves of the river and the mist.
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Another defining feature of this style – is the use of different metals, enamels, mobile, stones, crystals, pearls and nacre especially, and the imitation in jewelery is performed using ivory and rare woods.
It is very simple to identify the jewelry items in Art-deco style – the product may contain ornamental patterns, consisting of intricate lines, women’s silhouettes, Sakura, various butterflies with tracery-open wings, all this must be supplemented with opals and pearls.
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In jewelery Art Deco motives intertwine national art of creations of the Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, with elements of constructivism, cubism, art nouveau, futurism, abstract painting. Jewelry items of Art Deco style looked unusual and were regarded as avant-garde at that time: traditional round and oval stones were replaced with triangles, rectangles and trapezes with new types of cut, metal was not visible due to a new method of fixing stones. Simultaneously, combining simplicity and luxury, style Art Deco is relevant in jewelery even nowadays, because it is a purely decorative style and the most appropriate style in jewelry
Cartier Jewelry House -Art Deco as a basis
Initially, Cartier chose simple compositions and clear shapes – a circle or a segment of the most “feminine”, according to the master.
Later, he “mastered” the other figure. Jewelry pieces with simple and clear silhouette of onyx, rock crystal, jade, pearl, he decorated with diamonds and other precious stones – in fine colors.
But soon the House of Cartier developed a “white art deco”, where the white platinum and diamonds were combined with black onyx and black enamel. This game of black and white spots has created a kind of motive “panther skin.”
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This motive was used later in the design of watches. “White Art Deco”, perhaps, not only enriched the company, but also helped the formation of a new style in general. The baskets with flowers were quite typical for jewelry in the Art Deco.
Jean Fouquet and Raymond Templier’s creative designs
Jean Fouquet, son of Georges Fouquet (the famous artist-goldsmith previous era – Art Nouveau) created jewelry in Art deco style. One of the most impressing pieces was a brooche in the form of plates. Squares fit tightly to each other and diamonds alternate with unpolished surfaces of platinum.
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These elements can be trimmed in black, blue or red enamel. Ivory brooch and bracelet are stored in Paris and New Yourk
“Skyscrapers” – earrings made of platinum -by another Parisian jeweler, Raymond Templier. These earrings manifested ideas of constructivism. Templier decorated with geometrical elements of their “precious designs” bright enamel or Japanese lacquer.
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His style was intense, eye-catching, bright, sometimes even rude. Precious and semiprecious stones are treated in different ways – in the form of baguettes, trapezoids, barrels, squares, or irregularly shaped cabochons. All these types of cutting can often be seen simultaneously in one product. These combinations create unique color and lighting effects.